We set out a bit later than planned yesterday, at 12:15pm. Destination: Wat Saket. To get there, we walked through the Sukhumvit district to the Nana Nua Pier, and from there traversed the Khlong Saem Saep canal via the local express boat service.
The express boat service provides a ferry alternative to heavily traffic-congested central Bangkok. It’s a decidedly local affair: the boats are crowded with Bangkokians going about their business. It’s also popular with tourists looking for an authentic travel experience. Sadly, the river itself is terribly polluted (though there have been efforts in recent years to clean it up) and the views as you travel along it are of slums. That said, the express boat service is fast and cheap (16THB / $0.60 CAD pp.) We found it to be a fun way of getting around the city, definitely more enjoyable than getting stuck in traffic in a taxi. Plus, it happens to go directly to where we wanted to go.
Bangkok is a flat city and the Golden Mount is its highest elevation and a place of great significance to Buddhists. The original temple was built during the Ayutthaya era (14th – 18th centuries) and renovated by King Rama I (d. 1809), who changed the name from Wat Sakae to Wat Saket. His grandson, King Rama III, decided to build a huge pagoda here but it collapsed during construction because the soil was too soft to support the weight. As the abandoned structure became overgrown with weeds over the years that followed, it transformed into a hill. King Rama IV began restoration and King Rama V completed the building of the temple on top of the hill, giving it the royal name of Suwan Banphot (Golden Mount.) The pagoda contains relics of the Buddha received from India and an annual seven-day festival takes place here in November, with a candlelit procession going up the 344 steps to the top to worship the Buddha and bring prosperity to Thailand. It’s a landmark in the city, providing panoramic views of Old Bangkok.
I thought the walk to the top was going to require some physical exertion but it wasn’t difficult at all. The steps are small and I could have done it two-at-a-time, but I felt like it was supposed to be done more thoughtfully, with one step equaling one blessing. It was hot of course, with temperatures hovering around 35C. Wisely, the 100THB entry fee (for tourists) also comes with a free bottle of water.
After exploring the Golden Mount we walked back to the canal and hopped in the boat for the ride back to Sukhumvit district. Including the walk to/from the pier, the trip took about 1:20 each way.
I missed my daily Som Tam salad the day before so we went down to the pool and I ordered one for each of us, along with some fries. For my Som Tam, I requested “sam chili, krab!” – three chilies – and it was fiery, just how I like it! Our server said that she likes hers with one chili and that many Thais get 10! My Buddha!!
After a light dinner at the Club, which was highlighted by a fantastic Panang Tofu, Mei gave us a language lesson for over 30 minutes, focusing on Thai writing, and more specifically how to write our names in Thai. It’s a very complex language!
We’re not sure what we’re going to do today. Originally, I thought today would be a good day to head over to Chinatown but I’ve learned that Monday is when most restaurants and food stalls are closed for cleaning. I wanted to avoid the crowds of the weekend, hoping to find a sweet spot between hustle and hushed, but I think Monday will be too quiet. We’ve also considered heading to Jodd Fair, via the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit), but I’m dissuaded by stories of a lot of pick-pocketing at the night market. Unlike last year’s trip, I want to give us more time to do absolutely nothing if we feel like it, instead of cramming in a bunch of touristy things to do. We’re content to just BHN: Be Here Now.